Plans to Build 6 Drawer Dresser

Plans

We have such a special care for today my lovely beau builders! I've teamed upwardly with one of my favorite sweet friends, Lindsay of Makely Habitation to bring y'all a gorgeous gear up of plans and a fabulous showcase all in one! She has worked so very hard on building and finishing this beauty and so I hope y'all will head over to visit her and gush over her build! She will exist sharing more cute images, details well-nigh their experience building from my plans, too as a bit near how this collaboration came to be! It was so much fun working with her on this and I admire having the hazard to mix business with pleasure – then to speak. Information technology isn't all that often that I have the chance to piece of work on a project for this site with someone I adore in real life, then yahoo for that.

• Brad Nailer or Smash Gun
• Safety Gear
• Record Measure out
• Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw​
• Drill
• Square
• Sander
• Kreg Jig – if yous build frequently, invest in this i

• ane one/2 sheets of ¾" plywood (2nd canvass – just need ii'x2′ area)
• i sail 1/ii″ plywood
• ane sheet 1/4″ plywood (or if your store will sell you lot a 1/ii sail at two'x8′ and so crawly)
• 1- 2×6 at 6′
• 2- 2×3 at eight′ (one front/dorsum + two side per board)
• four- 1×half-dozen at viii′ (iii at 26  1/2 + i at xvi one/4 per board for 2 boards, then 5 at 16 1/4 per board)
• 2- 1×8 at viii′ (iii per board)

• 4- 2×vi at 7 3/iv″ legs
• 4- ii×iii at 15 3/4″ frame rails
• 2- two×three at 51 1/4″ frame front/back
• half dozen- 1×6 at 26 1/2″ drawer backs
• 12- 1×6 at 16 one/4″ drawer sides
• half dozen- i×viii at 27 xi/xvi″ drawer forepart

• ii- 3/4″ ply at 20″x22 one/iv″ sides
• 2- 3/4″ ply at 20″x57 1/iv″ top/lesser
• ane- 3/4″ ply at 19 one/4″ x 22 1/4″ center

• six- 1/2″ ply at 26 i/2″ x v iii/4″ drawer faces
• 6-one/2″ ply at 26 1/2″ x 17″ drawer bottoms

• i- 1/4″ ply at 57 1/4″ x 22 1/4″ back

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure yous have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and modify the plans to make the edifice process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the unabridged set of instructions and all comments before outset this project. If y'all print out or save plans, exist certain to check in on my site to be sure you take the near upwardly to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found nether the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information nearly how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing procedure, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Apply mucilage to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will final for historic period

Utilise a 2×6 to cutting your leg pieces. Create your guidelines every bit seen in the second paradigm below and cut equally indicated. Utilise a round saw if possible.

Build your Box. The side panels will sit inside the top and bottom panels and they will sit flush on the front, notwithstanding set in ¼" on the back side. This will allow for the back panel later. The bottom of your box will overhang your base by ¾" all the way around. Use 1 ¼" pocket hole screws with your pocket pigsty jig set for ¾" material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel (on the inside), and glue to fasten.

Fasten the Center Panel in Identify. The middle console will sit down back ¾" on the front end side and ¼" on the dorsum side and should be centered equally precisely every bit possible between the side panels. Employ 1 ¼" pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig prepare for ¾" textile and your pocket holes forth the meridian and bottom of the panel, and mucilage to fasten.

Build Your Drawer Boxes. You volition make of these 6 exactly the same way. In step 9, your drawer fronts volition differ in their placement for 3 of your 6 drawers, but in this step and the next they are identical. The bottom will sit flush with the outside perimeter of the sides and back and tin exist secured using your brad nails and glue or ane" wood screws with a countersink scrap to predrill and glue.

Secure your Drawer Faces and Attach Drawer Glides. The faces will be cut to size from your ½" plywood, and will sit down affluent with the drawer box on the acme, sides, and bottom. The drawer glide should sit down three" upwards from the lesser of the box and ane" back from the front edge once the confront has been attached.

Cut and Notch Your Drawer Fronts. Cut your fronts to size and and then notch out the handle area using a jig saw. Do non attach Drawer Fronts to the drawers themselves notwithstanding.

Attach Drawer Glides to Side and Center Panels. Adhere Glides in locations indicated beneath.  Work from the back for your measurements so they all finish up at the same location (the center panel is gear up dorsum further than the sides from the front edge, so the dimensions are dissimilar from that side).  There will be 1/viii" spacing around all edges of each drawer front and the placement of the drawer glides takes this into consideration.  For the bottom and heart pair of drawer glides, measurements are from the bottom and dorsum edge of the side and center panels and line upwards with the bottom edge of the drawer glides. For the top pair two of drawer glides the measurements are either from the peak and back edge of the side and heart panels or the bottom and back edges if you prefer, Merely they should still marshal with the bottom border of the drawer glide.  All glides should sit 2 ¼" in from the back edge.

**Likewise noted on the diagram below is the relative space each drawer volition occupy including the one/viii" spacing on the bottom for each drawer, except for the acme drawers which volition have an additional 1/8" spacing on the meridian as well.

Insert Drawers. Line upwards the drawer glides and insert drawers in their respective locations. In the diagram below, the drawer front end is attached, however you will really attach the drawer front one time the drawers have been inserted into the unit so you lot tin adjust for any corporeality you might be 'off'.

Adhere Drawer Fronts. You lot tin can do this afterward you have your drawers installed so that you can suit for any slight discrepancies, but the location of the drawer fronts should be approximately what you lot come across shown beneath in the diagram. There will be one/8" spacing between the outside edge of the drawer front and the inside edge of the side panels on your box. There will also be 1/8" spacing higher up and below each drawer. There will exist 1/8" spacing between the left and right drawers too, but since they divide the space remaining, the overhang on the inside edges of your drawer fronts will be dissimilar than on the outside edges so I recommend using the exterior edges as your guide. The Fronts volition sit flush with the drawer on the bottom border, will overhang ane ½" on the top and 3/8" on the outside border. The drawer shown below in the diagram would be a drawer for left hand side of your unit if you are facing your unit. These measurements for the overhang will exist on the other side for the right paw side drawers. Adhere drawer fronts with one one/4" brad nails and gum, where the front meets the sides of your drawer box (otherwise the nails will stick out the back of the drawer face).

Attach the Back Console. Use one ¼" brad nails and glue to attach your back to the side and center panels.

Finishing Instructions

Fill whatsoever Screw, Smash or Pocket Holes, Sand and Terminate as Desired.

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